There are certain restaurants that have discovered the secrets of staying power--excellent food, ambiance, an intimate and warm environment that generates repeat business, and a commitment to excellence in all that they do.

Baldo's, on Hampton Boulevard in St. Louis, is such an establishment. For more than 13 years, it has offered some great Italian dishes served in one of the most European settings of any St. Louis restaurant.

We have enjoyed Baldo's and its predecessor, da Vinci's , for nearly 20 years. But we believe that owner Baldo and his lovely wife, Madda, who have owned the restaurant , have spurred the establishment to a new level of cuisine excellence in the 13 years since they bought the establishment.

Baldo himself is the chef for the restaurant, a reflection of his love of cooking. Wife Madda, is also a highly visible and important presence, greting the diners and taking great care to ensure their enjoyment while dining. And yes, she is as lovely and warm as the beautiful oil portrait of her that graces the main dining room.

We revisited Baldo's as preparation for our review and as recognition as its selection as an America's Seniors Top 20 Restaurant pick. As noted, we have been a semi-regular of the restaurant for some time, and this most recent visit only confirmed that Baldo's is one of the top St. Louis restaurants.

My guest and I started our evening in the small, but comfortable bar area with a glass of house Chardonnay. Upon being seated, we decided to follow  by ordering separate appetizers and then sharing the selection.

I order the Melanzane Fret (fried eggplant), one of my favorites, while my friend ordered escargot Bourguingnon stuffed in mushroom caps and prepared with a wonderful wine, garlic, butter and herb sauce. Each was prepared to perfection, but special praise goes to the escargot. Even if you are not a fan of this delicacy, we strongly recommend that you try these. There was no sandy taste or mussel-chewiness that we have encountered at some restaurants. Instead, they were soft and tender, a complemented superbly by the accompanying sauce.

As we have done in previous reviews of other restaurants, we decided to try a salad with Mayfair dressing. The Mayfair at Baldo's is a bit lighter than some at other restaurants, a reflection of the many different variations of this St. Louis favorite.

The veal dishes as Baldo's have long been a favorite of our. We were not to be disappointed on this visit.

I ordered the Vitello Saltimbocca (veal scaloppini, prosciutto, sage, wine and cheese). The sauce was absolutely only of the best that I have tasted. It had a lingering taste that was highly enjoyable. For my pasta side dish, I ordered a creamy white sauce.

My friend ordered the Fegato Alla Chiotta (provimi veal liver, with a sauce featuring fresh tomato, onion and capers). As might be expected from a veal liver, the dish was especially tender, with a light liver flavor that was made more enjoyable by the excellent sauce. In short, it, too, was of the same high standard that we have come to expect from Baldo's.

Dessert was an especially pleasant surprise. We had wanted Cannoli, but the popularity of this Baldo favorite was proven when we were informed that there was no more. Our wonderful waiter, Michael D. Kolokithas, asked if he could make a recommendation. How could we say no? He is one the more enjoyable and better waiters we have encountered, and we had complete trust in any recommendations he might make.

We weren't disappointed. The Torta Di Gelator Alla Mandorla (chocolate and almond ice cream cake, made fresh by Baldo) was superb. We join Michael in recommending it.

During the meal, we enjoyed some Amarone, always our favorite Italian wine. It added to the warmth and intimacy of the ambiance and the meal.

Speaking of ambiance, be sure to note the redecorating that was the result of a trip two years ago by Baldo and Madda to Italy. Upon their return, the enhanced the European atmosphere by replacing solid walls with graceful archways between the main dining room and the bar. There are plans for further emphasis of the Italian heritage when in the very near future, Baldo's will add a traditional Italian ice cream bar menu to its offerings.

Excellent food…wonder ambiance…good wine…great service…and a friendliness that flows from the example of Baldo and Madda. One might expect to pay a fortune for such a place. But don't worry. The food is amazing inexpensive with all entrees coming in at below $15. Side dishes and antipasti are similarly value-priced.